Thursday, August 2, 2007

Huangshan (Yellow Mountain)


Huangshan is thought to be one of the most beautiful and breathtaking parts of China, the startling, cloud cloaked peaks of Huangshan have for centuries been celebrated by poets and painters. Even if the name is not instantly familiar, most people will have seen the iconic images of umbrella trees and sheer rock faces portrayed in Chinese paintings, for which the Yellow Maintain’s spirit is the muse. In return, painters and poets bestowed names of the dramatic peaks such as None Dragons, Taoist Priest and Fairy Capital.

Although the main peak is under 1,900m, the 70 sheer rock cliffs are spectacular to hike, and the winding concrete steps are usually very crowded. The group of mountains has 72 peaks, many of them unexplored and not reachable by regular travelers. Regardless, what is accessible will etch an unforgettable and dramatic image in your memory.

Even when shrouded in mist as is the norm, the scenery of precipitous peaks, bamboo groves, and ancient twisted pines is unusually beautiful. Accommodation is available in pretty Wenquan or nearby Tangkao. Consider spending a night at the top for spectacular, but not solitary, sunsets and sunrises.

In clear weather, the rugged mountains jut out of fluffy white clouds that settler as a halo around the peaks. Trees and shrubs grow from impossible crevices and little streams and brooks carve their paths through the rocky surface.

Even on a misty day (which is the one you are more likely to witness) when vapor obscures the views, the eerie smoke that seems to swirl around the trees and mountains adds an enchanting air of mystery and magic.

The best time to visit the mountain range is early in the morning and many people camp out among the peaks to be sure to witness the sunrise. Other luckier travelers will have secured one of the sought-after rooms in one of the hotels at the top of the range.

For those who are not such early risers and who are not staying at the top of the mountains, cable cars are available in certain areas.

There is always the option for the more energetic tourists to climb the steps. Most of the cable car ports have an additional pathway for those who choose to walk. However, through a rough calculation there are 30,000 almost vertical steps to the top, an endeavor in itself even on the way down.

While you huff and puff your way along the five kilometer (the eastern route) trek nimble porters trot up and down the mountain carrying their loads on bamboo sticks balanced over their shoulders with practiced ease. The western route (9 miles/15 km) is up to twice that. Some hikers choose to take the eastern route up and the western route down. Two cable cars allow you to bypass much of the walking, but the line ups are usually very long.

If it all gets too much, there are even porters ready to crate tiring tourists the rest of the way, however, with the steep incline this would be the far more petrifying option.

Once at the top you can idle your time away along the craggy paths, take in the breathtaking scenery and even have a few romantic moments.

With a trip to Huangshan, you will be able to share an understanding with those ancient artists who in their time were so inspired by the vision of Huangshan, perhaps in turn inspiring who now visit.

Source: (In the high land of poets by Jenny Hammond, Shanghai Daily Monday 30 July 2007 and DK – China).

Lake Tai (Tai Hu) - Wu Xi

The highlights of a trip to Wuxi are the scenic Tai Hu (Lake Tai) and the Grand Canal. According to legend the town was established 3,500 years ago as the capital of the Wu Kingdom and was a center for production of tin. When the tin ran dry (Wuxi means “without tin”) the capital moved west, but Wuxi remained significant due to its location on the Grand Canal.

One of the China’s largest lakes, Tai Hu is famous for the rocks, indispensable feature of a traditional garden. The lake’s northern shores are fringed with scenic spots including Mei Yuan (Plum Garden), spectacular in spring when its 4,000 fruit trees blossom. Yuantou Zhu (Turtle Head Peninsula) is a favorite with the Chinese, with tea houses and pretty lake views.

Turtle Head Peninsula, located in the northwest shore of Lake Tai Hu, gets its name because of its huge rocks projecting into lake, appearing as if a swimming turtle tossing its head. It is endowed by nature, with green hills and clear water. Tourists call it “the best resort on Lake Tai Hu” and consider it as the best to enjoy the natural beauty of Lake Tai Hu. The scenic Turtle Head Park was first founded in 1918, and at present it covers an area of 500 hectares. Numerous scenic spots such as Enveloped Scenic Beauty Temple, Fairy Island on Lake Taihu, Jiangnan Orchid Garden and Sino-Japanese Friendship Cherry Woods.

The Fairy Island on the Lake Taihu, which used to be called the Three-Mount island, is a group of well known islands and islets in the famous scenic spot of Lake Taihu. It lies in the lake and is 2.6 km away from the Turtle Head Peninsula, which is in the northeast shore. The entire islands are made up of the islets such as Daji, Xiaoji, Dongya, Xiya, with a total area of 12 ha. The Three Mount Island looks like a divine tortoise floating quietly on the water and seems especially graceful and elegant in such a vast and mist-covered lake. On the island, dark green pines and emerald green bamboos, blood red maple leaves, and wreathing brume compose the unique elegant scene. What is more, we resumed the Three Mount Taoist Closter of Wu Taibo period on the island. As one and only Taoist Closter built on the island of the whole country, its traditional Taoism culture of China transforms the Tai Hu Island miraculously into a transcendent and refined wonderland.

The sad thing about Lake Tai Hu is that it is not that good and also you may find difficulty to reach this place except that you hire a taxi and ask the taxi driver to wait for you. It is better if your travel is arranged by a travel agent.

Xihui Park in the west of town was established in 1958, and houses of the Jichang Yuan garden. At the park’s entrance, a path leads to the Dragon Light Pagoda on top of Xi Shan. A cable car connects Xi Shan to nearby Hui San. The Wuxi Museum has exhibits dating back 6,000 years, and includes some Qing dynasty cannons. If you go to Lake Tai Hu, you can easily see the Xihui Park – Xi Shan including the Pagoda since you will pass Xi Shan.
(Source: DK - China and other sources)
Note on the pictures:
(1) Turtle Head Peninsula - from away looks like a tortoise
(2) Me with Turtle Head Peninsula background
(3) Me with Turtle Head Peninsula background
(4) (5) (6) View in the Turtle Head Peninsula
(7) Ships in the Tai Hu
(8) Ships in the Tai Hu
(9) Color of the water in Tai Hu. The green color due to pollution.

Three Kingdoms City - Wuxi

Among the several movie-shooting bases located along Taihu, Three Kingdoms City is the largest and most well known one. Covering 35 hectares, the city was built in 1993, totally in Han dynasty style, to film the famous historical TV serial odyssey - The Romance of Three Kingdoms, which is one of the four most famous novels. The serial was a success and then the city became the most favorable location of historical film.
(Source: Wikipedia)
Note on the pictures:
(1) Three Kingdom City - entrance gate
(2) Me in the entrance gate.
(3) Me in Chao Chao army barrack.
(4) Ornament in the city.
(5) Scene in the film - Guan Yu vs Lu Pu
(6) Scene in the film - Guan Yu vs Lu Pu
(7) Place for shooting movie - war scene
(8) Actors are ready for filming
(9) The statues of all characters in the novel


Wednesday, August 1, 2007

Zhouzhuang - Venice of the East

I have visited Zhouzhuang. Zhouzhuang (Chinese: 周庄; Pinyin: Zhōuzhuāng) is a town in Jiangsu province, China. It is located within Kunshan county-level city, 30 km southeast of Suzhou. Zhouzhuang is a small town on the Jinghang Canal, which links Suzhou and Shanghai. Zhouzhuang is a popular tourist destination. Zhouzhuang is entitled “No. 1 Water Village in China” or “Venice of the East”. Zhouzhuang is well preserved over 900 years, renowned for its century-old traditional houses and stone bridges over the flowing streams and canals. It is one of the most famous water townships in China, noted for its profound cultural background, the well preserved ancient residential houses, the elegant watery views and the strong local colored traditions and customs. It was once a flourishing port, specializing in silk, pottery and grain. It attracted scholars and officials who built fine bridges and houses between the Yuang and Qing eras. The charming Old Town can be explored on foot or via a boat tour on the canals.
Besides Zhouzhuang, actually in Jiangsu Province there is another water village, i.e. Tongli. However, Zhouzhuang is more famous than Tongli. This is due to Chen Yifei’s "Memory of Hometown", which depicted the Twin Bridges, was one of the items on display on an exhibition and has gained the world's attention for Zhouzhuang in 1984. The painting was chosen to be the first-day cover of the United Nations' postage stamp in 1985.

Twin Bridges (Shuang qiao)

Zhouzhuang is surrounded and divided by lakes and rivers. 14 stone bridges cross the rivers, showing distinctive views of the water-town. The Twin Bridges, which comprise of Shide Bridge and Yongan Bridge, are the most famous and are considered the symbol of Zhouzhuang. Built in the Wanli era (1573-1619) of the Ming Dynasty, the Twin Bridges are located in the northeast of the town. Shide Bridge is east-west and has a round arch, while Yongan Bridge is north-south and has a square arch. Crossing the two crisscross rivers (Yinzi Creek and Nabeishi River) and connecting at the middle, the Twin Bridges look like an old-style Chinese key. In 1984, 38 canvases of the notable painter,
Chen Yifei, were exhibited in a New York gallery of Armand Hammer, chairman of Occidental Petroleum Corporation. "Memory of Hometown", which depicted the Twin Bridges, was one of the items on display and has gained the world's attention for Zhouzhuang.

Shen House

Built in
1742 and located at the southeast side of Fuan Bridge, Shen House was the private property of the descendant of Shen Wansan, the first millionaire of Jiangnan (South of Yangtze River) in the early Qing Dynasty. The whole architectural complex is of the Qing's style and occupies an area of more than 2,000 square meters (half an acre). Over 100 rooms are divided into three sections and each one is connected by arcades and aisles. The first is the


water gate and the wharf, where Shen's family moored boats and washed clothes. The middle part includes the gate tower, the tearoom and the main hall. Bricky gate tower carved with lively and ingenious figures which tell the historic stories or show the good wishes, make it a rareartwork. Tea room and main hall are places for serving guests, and the furnishings in here are all very elegant. The last section is the two-storied dwelling which consists of several buildings which are quite different from the main hall, more comfortable and refined in pattern and atmosphere. The painted sculpture of legendary Shen Wansan is in Datang Tower; cultural relics


including ancient folk instruments are exhibited in Xiaotang Tower and Back Hall.

Zhang House

Built by Xu's family in the Zhengtong era (1436-1449) of the Ming Dynasty and bought by Zhang's family in the early Qing Dynasty. Located to the south of the Twin Bridges, Zhang House has more than 70 rooms and takes up about 1,800 square meters (less than half an acre). With Ruojing River flowing through, Zhang House is a dapper and graceful residential house; has a tranquil courtyard and pond. Deep halls all represent the life of the quondam owner.


(Source: Wikipedia and DK - China)



Note on the pictures:


(1) Old port to connect Zhouzhuang and Suzchou
(2), (3), (4) Sightseeing boats on the numerous canals
(5) Houses on the banks of the canal


(6) Bridges to connect two banks

(7) Zhouzhuang canal from the above's view
(8) Houses near the canal


(9) Kevin and me on the Twin Bridges
(10) Shen's house - visitor's room
(11) Shen's house - closed friend visitor's room I


(12) Shen's house - closed friend visitor's room II
(13) Shen's house - another room
(14) Shen's house - opium table

(15) Shen's house - statue of Shen Wansan
(16) Shen's house - dining room

(17) Shen's house - servant room
(18) Shen's house - traditional juicer

(19) Shen's house - accountant's table
(20) Zhang's house - in front

(21) Zhang's house - visitor's room
(22) Zhang's house - another room I

(23) Zhang's house - another room II

(24) Zhang's house - another room III
(25) Me in the Zhang's house garden


(26) Zhang's house - study room
























































































































































































































Silk Factory


After visiting Zhouzhuang, I have also visited the silk manufacturing facilities. According to legend it was empress Xi Ling who in 2640 BC, encouraged silkworm breeding on a large scale. Trading vast quantities of material around the world, China profited massively from the industry. It remained a Chinese monopoly for the next 3,000 years or so until refugees smuggled the secret to Korea and Japan. Another story tells that a Chinese princess who married the Prince of Khotan secretly brought silkworms with her as a gift for her husband. The western world, which knew China as a Seres or Land of Silk, learnt the secret of silk production via two monks, who hid silkworms in their bamboo staffs.

Silk was originally reserved for use by the imperial household. Silk was traded extensively as an important source of income and indeed was often used as a form of payment of taxes or payment of salaries.

Thousand of years of intensive breeding have rendered the silk moth. Bombyx mori, a blind, flightless, egg-laying machine whose larvae hold the secret of silk. The genius of the Chinese lay in the discovery of the potential of its ancestor, a wild, mulberry eating moth unique to China. The eggs are first kept at 65ºF (18ºC) rising to 77ºF (25ºC) at which point they batch. Silkworms (actually caterpillars) are now kept at a constant temperature and fed mulberry leaves at 30 minute intervals day and night, until fattened they are ready to enter the cocoon stage. When they are ready to pupate, with a figure-of-eight motion, they spin their sticky secretion into cocoons. The cocoons are steamed to kill the pupae and soaked to soften the sticky gum and allow the silk strands to be separated. Several strands are woven to make one silk thread.


(Source: DK - China).