Thursday, August 2, 2007

Huangshan (Yellow Mountain)


Huangshan is thought to be one of the most beautiful and breathtaking parts of China, the startling, cloud cloaked peaks of Huangshan have for centuries been celebrated by poets and painters. Even if the name is not instantly familiar, most people will have seen the iconic images of umbrella trees and sheer rock faces portrayed in Chinese paintings, for which the Yellow Maintain’s spirit is the muse. In return, painters and poets bestowed names of the dramatic peaks such as None Dragons, Taoist Priest and Fairy Capital.

Although the main peak is under 1,900m, the 70 sheer rock cliffs are spectacular to hike, and the winding concrete steps are usually very crowded. The group of mountains has 72 peaks, many of them unexplored and not reachable by regular travelers. Regardless, what is accessible will etch an unforgettable and dramatic image in your memory.

Even when shrouded in mist as is the norm, the scenery of precipitous peaks, bamboo groves, and ancient twisted pines is unusually beautiful. Accommodation is available in pretty Wenquan or nearby Tangkao. Consider spending a night at the top for spectacular, but not solitary, sunsets and sunrises.

In clear weather, the rugged mountains jut out of fluffy white clouds that settler as a halo around the peaks. Trees and shrubs grow from impossible crevices and little streams and brooks carve their paths through the rocky surface.

Even on a misty day (which is the one you are more likely to witness) when vapor obscures the views, the eerie smoke that seems to swirl around the trees and mountains adds an enchanting air of mystery and magic.

The best time to visit the mountain range is early in the morning and many people camp out among the peaks to be sure to witness the sunrise. Other luckier travelers will have secured one of the sought-after rooms in one of the hotels at the top of the range.

For those who are not such early risers and who are not staying at the top of the mountains, cable cars are available in certain areas.

There is always the option for the more energetic tourists to climb the steps. Most of the cable car ports have an additional pathway for those who choose to walk. However, through a rough calculation there are 30,000 almost vertical steps to the top, an endeavor in itself even on the way down.

While you huff and puff your way along the five kilometer (the eastern route) trek nimble porters trot up and down the mountain carrying their loads on bamboo sticks balanced over their shoulders with practiced ease. The western route (9 miles/15 km) is up to twice that. Some hikers choose to take the eastern route up and the western route down. Two cable cars allow you to bypass much of the walking, but the line ups are usually very long.

If it all gets too much, there are even porters ready to crate tiring tourists the rest of the way, however, with the steep incline this would be the far more petrifying option.

Once at the top you can idle your time away along the craggy paths, take in the breathtaking scenery and even have a few romantic moments.

With a trip to Huangshan, you will be able to share an understanding with those ancient artists who in their time were so inspired by the vision of Huangshan, perhaps in turn inspiring who now visit.

Source: (In the high land of poets by Jenny Hammond, Shanghai Daily Monday 30 July 2007 and DK – China).

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